Belstaff AW15

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A hideous combination of rain and wind made the bus, tube, walk, and cab, commute interesting. However the Belstaff presentation was well worth battling the elements for. Set at the Old Sessions House (I’m familiar with the location, as this is where the Alexander McQueen sample sale is often held) once inside smart looking waiters offered mulled wine, and champagne. Low lighting and vintage parachute silks dramatically hung from the ceiling down the staircase.

The collection was everything you hope to look like on a winter day in the city–warm yet effortlessly chic. My absolute favourite piece was the fur coat, but this was one of those collections where I would happily wear every single look. Designer Delphine Ninous took inspiration from the first pioneering women to dress in Belstaff, Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson. She also partnered with Sunday Riley skin care rather than a makeup brand for the models look…”With this collection we wanted to reaffirm the Belstaff woman as someone who is organic and adventurous, with a free spirit very much rooted in the outdoors. She isn’t someone reliant on traditional make-up.”

Makeup artist Maria Comparetto designed the look for the presentation here’s what she told me:
All the models had flash facials as part of the makeup process.

Skin prep, for me this is crucial having trained as a beauty therapist and understanding skin. It is paramount that the models were cleansed, massaged and moisturised before makeup allowing the skin to gleam and have a  healthy glow.

Sunday Riley Flash Facials:
1- Cleanse with Ceramic Slip
2- A mask of Ceramic Slip and Good Genes was applied to balance skin, shrink pores, brighten and boost circulation.
3- A few drops of either Juno or Artemis oil was massaged into the skin based on their skin type
4-Finishing off with Start Over on the eyes to reduce puffiness and correct dark circles.

The Look:
Sunday Riley Effortless Primer was applied as a base.
To add depth and a ruddy windswept element we used a rose/brick cheek tint applied just under the eyes to the front of the cheek. I used a selection of brown pencils on the eyes to deepen them, then created freckles with the same pencils on all the girls. Brows were defined and brushed up and the lashes were curled to open up the eyes. Mattifier was used on the lip to dull down the shine and the finishing touch was to add highlights to the face by applying a final glaze of Artemis oil to temples and cheek bones. The result was models looked strong, radiant, fresh and healthy.

 

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Posted in RUNWAY TRENDS

Daks AW15

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After I left Felder Felder I had just over half an hour to run down to Somerset House for Daks. This time I made haste so as to be at the front of the queue. Unfortunately it turned out despite being at the front of the line I was actually in the wrong line. My day one blunders were racking up! I quickly ran to the other entrance I was just hoping they didn’t reach capacity before I got in as the line was of course huge. After being admitted I handed in my ticket and thought I was home free. Then  the security guard looked down and saw my makeup kit. I couldn’t come in with my kit. I had had my kit with me all day as I later that evening I was working the Central Saint Martins show. Doing double duty–makeup artist, and blogger can be quite the ordeal at fashion week. If it wasn’t for Freddie, the accommodating girl at the press lounge who watched my kit, I would have be completely out of luck.

The show was packed and the lights were all red until the show started. I had an excellent spot to view the runway. I did come out half deaf as I was postponed next to the speaker which was blaring Come On by Barry White. The collection was fabulous really wearable pieces.  The colour palette of bright reds, pale greys, black and camel looked amazing with the strong mod sixties vibe of the clothes. It felt like being transported to Carnaby street fifty years ago. The makeup look was designed by Maria Comparetto. Double liner that extended out with white pencil in the water line.  Beautiful skin that glowed and paled out lips. It would also seem that perhaps nail art isn’t quite over as the abstract design matched the clothes perfectly.

Clothing images style.com 

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Posted in RUNWAY TRENDS

Felder Felder AW15

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Day 1 of London fashion week and my first show to attend was Felder Felder. Standing in line outside the Freemasons’ hall in Covent Garden I realized a few things: I should have brought my fur, London was much colder than I had anticipated, and I shouldn’t have lingered in Pret for so long then I would be further ahead in the queue!

The theme of the show was–Don’t hate what you don’t understand. The designers looked to sixties Berlin and the style of Uschi Obermaier the actress and model who was a key figure of countercultural commune of the time. Following along this same vein the makeup look had that abandoned feel of a 60’s girl that had been out all night. The black banana line through the socket was etched in with kohl pencil and gel eyeliner. The upper lashes had at least 4 of coats of mascara. The top of the cheekbones were highlighted, and the same berry stain was used on lips and on the apples of the cheeks for a flushed look.

 

Images from style.com & WJ London Lifestyle

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Posted in RUNWAY TRENDS

Best of New York Fashion Week AW15

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As was the case last fall, I’m behind in my collection reviews due to being in London last week for fashion week. Flashback to New York where eyes definitely seemed to be the focus of many of the looks and natural matte skin was popular. I liked what Tom Pecheux did at Altuzarra combing cool and warm cream shadows for a 80’s feel on the eyes. To go along with the disco theme at Rodarte, round silver jewels were applied along the centre of the lower lash line. I loved the imperfection at Alexander Wang. No mascara and slate shadow more concentrated in the inner corner.

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Posted in RUNWAY TRENDS

Victoria Beckham & Alexander Wang AW 2015

NYFW_Victoria_Beckham_Alexander_WangThe New York Collections are hot, which is a good thing because it looks absolutely freezing there. Pat McGrath’s creation for Victoria Beckham consisted of full eyebrows and smudgy lower liner that dropped lower in the centre. Lips were void of any colour, and the girls skin glowed. In contrast to Beckham’s polished look, Alexander Wang’s goth girls wore undone smoky eyes and greasy hair inspired by Marilyn Manson, and KISS. Diane Kendal use NARS eye shadow sticks and then removed the majority to create the imperfect beauty look.

 

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Posted in RUNWAY TRENDS

How To: Ultra Matte Lips

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To get the most matte lips ever, start by using a lip scrub to remove any flaky skin and smooth the lip texture. Next apply a lip liner that isn’t overly creamy, over the entire lip surface. To intensify the lip colour and remove any sheen use a medium size firm brush, and apply matte loose pigment to set the lip liner and achieve the perfect no-shine mouth.

1. Lush Bubble Gum Lip Scrub 2. Giorgio Armani Smooth Silk Lip Liner no.11  3. Shu Uemura No. 10 Synthetic Brush 4. MAC PRO Pigment in Basic Red

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Posted in HOW TO

YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils

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I’m a massive fan of YSL mascara. I go between Shocking and Effet Faux Cils for myself and in my kit. The colour is really rich, the brush deposits lots of product, and the result is dark, full, long lashes. I have yet to try this new revamped version which has added care benefits for eye lashes.

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Posted in PRODUCT REVIEWS

2015 Grammy Awards

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What a night. There were so many spectacular red carpet moments from fashion to beauty. It goes without saying that Rihanna in Giambattista Valli Couture, was the showstopper of the evening. Racing down the red carpet moments before the show began like a giant pink frosted cupcake. I absolutely loved her whole look–simple pulled back hair, soft neutral makeup, and then the dress! Beyonce continued the neutral makeup trend looking fresh faced, and wearing her long locks less voluminous than usual. Kim Kardashian’s recently chopped hair and golden makeup looked quite stunning paired with her shimmering Jean Paul Gaultier gown. Chrissy Teigan can always be counted on for bronzed glowy skin. She looked gorgeous last night in white Emilio Pucci. Ciara brought the drama showing off her insane body in Alexander Vauthier. Her hair pulled of her face, and neutral toned makeup, drew attention to her incredible bone structure. Rita Ora’s smoky eyes stood out amongst a sea of earth tones, as did her newly cropped hair and silver sequined Prada dress.

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Posted in CELEBRITY STYLE

Makeup Artist: Ninni Nummela

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Makeup Artist Ninni Nummela knows how to create incredible skin. The last image of Nadja Auermann is from Ninni’s latest work in the February 2015 edition of Vogue Ukraine. The entire editorial is quite striking, click here to view.

Images from streeters.com

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Posted in FASHION INDUSTRY

Model of the Moment: Aya Jones

Aya Jones was scouted in her hometown of Paris, and it’s blatantly obvious why: 5’10, oval faced, doe eyes, and those lips. Aya debuted in Milan walking exclusively for Prada’s Spring 2015 show. After that she was up and down the runways of the most sort after designers, most recently walking the couture collections in Paris last week. I’m quite sure her show list will be long by the time fall collections conclude in March.

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Posted in FASHION INDUSTRY
Smudge Style is a blog about what I know and love: makeup, style and fashion. Contact me at info@smudgestyle.com if you have any makeup related questions, or just want to say hello.

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