Posts by leah:
Day 1 was a very short day with only three designers showing. It’s still a busy day for the makeup team. Our call time is always earlier on day 1 so we can unpack our carry on size suitcase which is full of brand new Maybelline product to use for the week! This is where the fun begins as the team tears open packages and arranges everything in a functional yet picture perfect way. You wouldn’t believe how long this process takes us. Once thats all sorted we have a team meeting with Grace Lee the key makeup artist for the shows.
Pink Tartan’s androgynous look was achieved with Maybelline Brow Drama to brush the brows up for a boyish look. Shading under the cheekbone and in the inner corner of the eye up to the brow, was done with a variety of the matte shades from the Nude palette. Sid Neigem was all about a strong graphic liner. The squared off shape broke in the centre and the outer edge. I went through my fair share of skinny cotton swabs to nail the look. The Mikhael Kale show is always my personal favourite ever since I worked on his presentation in London back in 2012. HIs designs are seriously on another level, and this season his colour palette was a mixture of corals and pinks interspersed with black and maroon leather. The makeup look was clean skin, full brows, tons of Lash Sensational but not clumpy looking, and a shot of neon coral powder in the corner of the eye. Lips were paled out with a dab of Master Conceal as a finishing touch.
Images from fashionmagazine.com Makeup design Grace Lee executed by me.
The best thing for a quick clean up on a precision makeup is an ultra thin cotton bud. These are a main stay in my makeup kit, I just stocked up on the Muji ones when I was in London last month. You can find something similar online at Alcone Company.
A British Balmain Army of models, socialites and celebrities were on hand earlier this week to celebrate Olivier Rousteing and the opening of the first ever Balmain shop in London. I love Balmain. The designs are stunning, always fabulous colours, shapes and textures, they are luxury party clothes. When you wear Balmain you don’t need anything else, which is why the neutral makeup worn by all the girls could not have been more appropriate.
From left to right: Jourdan Dunn, Poppy Delevingne, Ellie Goulding, Lily Donaldson, Sigail Currie, Olivier Rousteing, Jourdan Dunn
Images from dailymail.co.uk
Paris fashion week was phenomenal. Every season I feel the same way but this fall was truly brilliant. The Christian Dior show was fantastic, I dream about those patent full length boots with lucite heels. The makeup masters Peter Philips and Pat McGrath were in fine form producing bejewelled faces at Givenchy to the abstract brights at Margiela. Paris shut it down.
Beautiful, feminine makeup so synonymous with Milan made up a lot of the looks for the week. The deconstructed eye makeup at Fendi designed by Peter Phillips being one of the stand out looks.
The makeup looks from London fashion week were really varied as usual. Everything from barely there at Christopher Kane to full on art attack at Vivienne Westwood. London may have the shortest week, but some of the most creative makeups come out if it.
My last presentation to attend for the week was Wilson PK. This young London based designer was inspired by Cubism, the gentrification of artist communities within London and the social hierarchy of the city. What I loved about the collection was the unique use of texture, and the clean bright colour palette. PVC dresses with what looked like butterfly wings layered in-between were rather cool. The makeup look designed by Mel Arter was exactly what I like–simple and effective. Void of mascara and lipstick the bright dot placed in a different spot around the eye of each model, was the focus of the look.
A hideous combination of rain and wind made the bus, tube, walk, and cab, commute interesting. However the Belstaff presentation was well worth battling the elements for. Set at the Old Sessions House (I’m familiar with the location, as this is where the Alexander McQueen sample sale is often held) once inside smart looking waiters offered mulled wine, and champagne. Low lighting and vintage parachute silks dramatically hung from the ceiling down the staircase.
The collection was everything you hope to look like on a winter day in the city–warm yet effortlessly chic. My absolute favourite piece was the fur coat, but this was one of those collections where I would happily wear every single look. Designer Delphine Ninous took inspiration from the first pioneering women to dress in Belstaff, Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson. She also partnered with Sunday Riley skin care rather than a makeup brand for the models look…”With this collection we wanted to reaffirm the Belstaff woman as someone who is organic and adventurous, with a free spirit very much rooted in the outdoors. She isn’t someone reliant on traditional make-up.”
Makeup artist Maria Comparetto designed the look for the presentation here’s what she told me:
All the models had flash facials as part of the makeup process.
Skin prep, for me this is crucial having trained as a beauty therapist and understanding skin. It is paramount that the models were cleansed, massaged and moisturised before makeup allowing the skin to gleam and have a healthy glow.
Sunday Riley Flash Facials:
1- Cleanse with Ceramic Slip
2- A mask of Ceramic Slip and Good Genes was applied to balance skin, shrink pores, brighten and boost circulation.
3- A few drops of either Juno or Artemis oil was massaged into the skin based on their skin type
4-Finishing off with Start Over on the eyes to reduce puffiness and correct dark circles.
Sunday Riley Effortless Primer was applied as a base.
To add depth and a ruddy windswept element we used a rose/brick cheek tint applied just under the eyes to the front of the cheek. I used a selection of brown pencils on the eyes to deepen them, then created freckles with the same pencils on all the girls. Brows were defined and brushed up and the lashes were curled to open up the eyes. Mattifier was used on the lip to dull down the shine and the finishing touch was to add highlights to the face by applying a final glaze of Artemis oil to temples and cheek bones. The result was models looked strong, radiant, fresh and healthy.
After I left Felder Felder I had just over half an hour to run down to Somerset House for Daks. This time I made haste so as to be at the front of the queue. Unfortunately it turned out despite being at the front of the line I was actually in the wrong line. My day one blunders were racking up! I quickly ran to the other entrance I was just hoping they didn’t reach capacity before I got in as the line was of course huge. After being admitted I handed in my ticket and thought I was home free. Then the security guard looked down and saw my makeup kit. I couldn’t come in with my kit. I had had my kit with me all day as I later that evening I was working the Central Saint Martins show. Doing double duty–makeup artist, and blogger can be quite the ordeal at fashion week. If it wasn’t for Freddie, the accommodating girl at the press lounge who watched my kit, I would have be completely out of luck.
The show was packed and the lights were all red until the show started. I had an excellent spot to view the runway. I did come out half deaf as I was postponed next to the speaker which was blaring Come On by Barry White. The collection was fabulous really wearable pieces. The colour palette of bright reds, pale greys, black and camel looked amazing with the strong mod sixties vibe of the clothes. It felt like being transported to Carnaby street fifty years ago. The makeup look was designed by Maria Comparetto. Double liner that extended out with white pencil in the water line. Beautiful skin that glowed and paled out lips. It would also seem that perhaps nail art isn’t quite over as the abstract design matched the clothes perfectly.
Clothing images style.com
Day 1 of London fashion week and my first show to attend was Felder Felder. Standing in line outside the Freemasons’ hall in Covent Garden I realized a few things: I should have brought my fur, London was much colder than I had anticipated, and I shouldn’t have lingered in Pret for so long then I would be further ahead in the queue!
The theme of the show was–Don’t hate what you don’t understand. The designers looked to sixties Berlin and the style of Uschi Obermaier the actress and model who was a key figure of countercultural commune of the time. Following along this same vein the makeup look had that abandoned feel of a 60’s girl that had been out all night. The black banana line through the socket was etched in with kohl pencil and gel eyeliner. The upper lashes had at least 4 of coats of mascara. The top of the cheekbones were highlighted, and the same berry stain was used on lips and on the apples of the cheeks for a flushed look.