Blog Archives

Spring 2015 Neutral Beauty Must-Haves

 

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The spring runways were full of flawless complexions devoid of colour. The basis for any beautiful makeup look is the skin, and with these natural spring looks skin prep is essential. Hydrating vitamin enhanced water sprays; a few drops of oil massaged into the skin; before applying radiance boosting primer and foundation is the key. Don’t forget about lip balm to repair chapped lips and create a smooth surface for those nude lip colours. Highlight the high planes of the face with cream shadow to add subtle dimension. A bit of bronzing powder will warm up the complexion and give a sun kissed look. Eyebrows should be defined naturally by filling in any gaps and then brushed up and held in place with brow gel.

 

1. Armani Sun Fabric Bronzer 2. Kevin Aucoin The Precision Brow Pencil 3. Chantecaille Full Brow Perfecting Gel  4. Hourglass Hidden Corrective Concealer 5. Maybelline Master Prime Blur + Illuminate  6. Dior Skin Nude Air Foundation 7. Yves Saint Laurent Nu Couture Eyeshadow Palette   8. MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl  9. MAC Charged Water  10. Sunday Riley Artemis Oil 11. Homeoplasmine 

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Best of Toronto Fashion Week FW15

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A few of most popular makeup trends to emerge from last weeks collections in Toronto were the matte red lip, precise liquid eyeliner designs, and full eyebrows. Grace Lee created all the looks for the entire week of over 25 shows. My must-have Maybelline products included everything from the brow category. Brow shaping pencils and Brow Drama gel were essential for full groomed eye brows. Of course Baby Lips was a main stay not just because every single model that sat in my chair had insanely dry chapped lips, but also for adding the perfect sheen to skin.

I’m a big fan of the Master Precise liquid eyeliner. To recreate the Helder Diego 60’s inspired look I used Master Precise for the majority of the lines, then switched to the gel liner with an ultra skinny liner brush for the lower lashes.

Probably the quirkiest and most fun to do look of the week was Hayley Elsaesser. Pops of colour on the centre of the lower lash line and then an ombre fuchsia pink lip with the new Rebel Bloom lipsticks.

1. Lasting Drama Gel Liner 2. Color Show Kohl Liner in Turquoise Flash  3. Color Sensational Lipstick in Nude Lust 4. Color Tattoo in Tough as Taupe 5. Brow Shaping Pencil 6. Creamy Matte Lipstick in Siren in Scarlet 7. Dream Fresh BB Cream  8. Lash Sensational Mascara  9. Color Sensational Lipstick in Lilac Lush  10. Color Sensational Lipstick in Petal Pink  11. Baby Lips 12. Master Precise Liquid Liner 

Images from fashion magazine.com

 

 

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Posted in RUNWAY TRENDS

Toronto Fashion Week AW15 Day 1

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Day 1 was a very short day with only three designers showing.  It’s still a busy day for the makeup team. Our call time is always earlier on day 1 so we can unpack our carry on size suitcase which is full of brand new Maybelline product to use for the week! This is where the fun begins as the team tears open packages and arranges everything in a functional yet picture perfect way. You wouldn’t believe how long this process takes us. Once thats all sorted we have a team meeting with Grace Lee the key makeup artist for the shows.

Pink Tartan’s androgynous look was achieved with Maybelline Brow Drama to brush the brows up for a boyish look. Shading under the cheekbone and in the inner corner of the eye up to the brow, was done with a variety of the matte shades from the  Nude palette. Sid Neigem was all about a strong graphic liner. The squared off shape broke in the centre and the outer edge. I went through my fair share of skinny cotton swabs to nail the look. The Mikhael Kale show is always my personal favourite ever since I worked on his presentation in London back in 2012.  HIs designs are seriously on another level, and this season his colour palette was a mixture of corals and pinks interspersed with black and maroon leather. The makeup look was clean skin, full brows, tons of Lash Sensational but not clumpy looking, and a shot of neon coral powder in the corner of the eye. Lips were paled out with a dab of Master Conceal as a finishing touch.

1. Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama 2. The Nudes Palette 3. Face Studio Master Conceal 4. Eye Studio Brow Drama 5. Lash Sensational Mascara

Images from fashionmagazine.com  Makeup design Grace Lee executed by me.

 

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Best of Paris Fashion Week AW15

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Paris fashion week was phenomenal. Every season I feel the same way but this fall was truly brilliant. The Christian Dior show was fantastic, I dream about those patent full length boots with lucite heels. The makeup masters Peter Philips and Pat McGrath were in fine form producing bejewelled faces at Givenchy to the abstract brights at Margiela. Paris shut it down.

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Best of Milan Fashion Week AW15

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Beautiful, feminine makeup so synonymous with Milan made up a lot of the looks for the week. The deconstructed eye makeup at Fendi designed by Peter Phillips being one of the stand out looks.

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Best of London Fashion Week AW15

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The makeup looks from London fashion week were really varied as usual. Everything from barely there at Christopher Kane to full on art attack at Vivienne Westwood. London may have the shortest week, but some of the most creative makeups come out if it.

 

 

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Wilson PK AW15

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My last presentation to attend for the week was Wilson PK. This young London based designer was inspired by Cubism, the gentrification of artist communities within London and the social hierarchy of the city. What I loved about the collection was the unique use of texture, and the clean bright colour palette. PVC dresses with what looked like butterfly wings layered in-between were rather cool. The makeup look designed by Mel Arter was exactly what I like–simple and effective. Void of mascara and lipstick the bright dot placed in a different spot around the eye of each model, was the focus of the look.

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Belstaff AW15

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A hideous combination of rain and wind made the bus, tube, walk, and cab, commute interesting. However the Belstaff presentation was well worth battling the elements for. Set at the Old Sessions House (I’m familiar with the location, as this is where the Alexander McQueen sample sale is often held) once inside smart looking waiters offered mulled wine, and champagne. Low lighting and vintage parachute silks dramatically hung from the ceiling down the staircase.

The collection was everything you hope to look like on a winter day in the city–warm yet effortlessly chic. My absolute favourite piece was the fur coat, but this was one of those collections where I would happily wear every single look. Designer Delphine Ninous took inspiration from the first pioneering women to dress in Belstaff, Amelia Earhart and Amy Johnson. She also partnered with Sunday Riley skin care rather than a makeup brand for the models look…”With this collection we wanted to reaffirm the Belstaff woman as someone who is organic and adventurous, with a free spirit very much rooted in the outdoors. She isn’t someone reliant on traditional make-up.”

Makeup artist Maria Comparetto designed the look for the presentation here’s what she told me:
All the models had flash facials as part of the makeup process.

Skin prep, for me this is crucial having trained as a beauty therapist and understanding skin. It is paramount that the models were cleansed, massaged and moisturised before makeup allowing the skin to gleam and have a  healthy glow.

Sunday Riley Flash Facials:
1- Cleanse with Ceramic Slip
2- A mask of Ceramic Slip and Good Genes was applied to balance skin, shrink pores, brighten and boost circulation.
3- A few drops of either Juno or Artemis oil was massaged into the skin based on their skin type
4-Finishing off with Start Over on the eyes to reduce puffiness and correct dark circles.

The Look:
Sunday Riley Effortless Primer was applied as a base.
To add depth and a ruddy windswept element we used a rose/brick cheek tint applied just under the eyes to the front of the cheek. I used a selection of brown pencils on the eyes to deepen them, then created freckles with the same pencils on all the girls. Brows were defined and brushed up and the lashes were curled to open up the eyes. Mattifier was used on the lip to dull down the shine and the finishing touch was to add highlights to the face by applying a final glaze of Artemis oil to temples and cheek bones. The result was models looked strong, radiant, fresh and healthy.

 

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Daks AW15

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After I left Felder Felder I had just over half an hour to run down to Somerset House for Daks. This time I made haste so as to be at the front of the queue. Unfortunately it turned out despite being at the front of the line I was actually in the wrong line. My day one blunders were racking up! I quickly ran to the other entrance I was just hoping they didn’t reach capacity before I got in as the line was of course huge. After being admitted I handed in my ticket and thought I was home free. Then  the security guard looked down and saw my makeup kit. I couldn’t come in with my kit. I had had my kit with me all day as I later that evening I was working the Central Saint Martins show. Doing double duty–makeup artist, and blogger can be quite the ordeal at fashion week. If it wasn’t for Freddie, the accommodating girl at the press lounge who watched my kit, I would have be completely out of luck.

The show was packed and the lights were all red until the show started. I had an excellent spot to view the runway. I did come out half deaf as I was postponed next to the speaker which was blaring Come On by Barry White. The collection was fabulous really wearable pieces.  The colour palette of bright reds, pale greys, black and camel looked amazing with the strong mod sixties vibe of the clothes. It felt like being transported to Carnaby street fifty years ago. The makeup look was designed by Maria Comparetto. Double liner that extended out with white pencil in the water line.  Beautiful skin that glowed and paled out lips. It would also seem that perhaps nail art isn’t quite over as the abstract design matched the clothes perfectly.

Clothing images style.com 

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Felder Felder AW15

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Day 1 of London fashion week and my first show to attend was Felder Felder. Standing in line outside the Freemasons’ hall in Covent Garden I realized a few things: I should have brought my fur, London was much colder than I had anticipated, and I shouldn’t have lingered in Pret for so long then I would be further ahead in the queue!

The theme of the show was–Don’t hate what you don’t understand. The designers looked to sixties Berlin and the style of Uschi Obermaier the actress and model who was a key figure of countercultural commune of the time. Following along this same vein the makeup look had that abandoned feel of a 60’s girl that had been out all night. The black banana line through the socket was etched in with kohl pencil and gel eyeliner. The upper lashes had at least 4 of coats of mascara. The top of the cheekbones were highlighted, and the same berry stain was used on lips and on the apples of the cheeks for a flushed look.

 

Images from style.com & WJ London Lifestyle

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Smudge Style is a blog about what I know and love: makeup, style and fashion. Contact me at info@smudgestyle.com if you have any makeup related questions, or just want to say hello.

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